Food triggers memories like few other experiences, probably because it appeals to so many of our senses. For as long as I can remember I have been ordering game in restaurants to see what I can learn from professional stove-botherers. One dish that stands out for me is a spatchcocked, barbecued partridge I had just outside Barcelona. I zeroed in on it on the menu I think because I recognised the word ‘Perdiz’ and ordered ‘por favour’.

In the courtyard where the Elegant Sibling and I were seated was what looked like a wall-mounted hay rack that had been commandeered to host burning logs. Below it was a metal-topped table. Shortly after the waiter had relayed my message inside, the Chef emerged carrying a short iron bar and a cloth covered plate. What followed next was food theatre. The Chef began thrashing the logs sending a shower of sparks into the scented night sky. He then raked the fallen embers forward and with a gloved hand dropped the grill that was attached to the bottom of the hay rack and had been cleansed in the fire. This was my first introduction to wood-fired cooking and I remember my shock at the ferocity at the assault with the iron bar turning to fascination. The spatchcocked partridge was then revealed and slapped onto the grill to cook at wood-mark whatever until it looked right - the juicy side of done. It was a fabulous experience all-round.

The taste sensation was a combination of factors. The theatre of the cooking process certainly helped, but the coming together of the marinade and the wood smoke was irresistible.

Below is a close approximation and it of course also works with pheasant and chicken thighs.

Serves 2

ingredients

• A wood fire (charcoal will do but it is not the same flavour).

• Skewers

• 6 partridge breast fillets removed (they will also go on the skewers)

• 2 tbs of Olive Oil

• The juice of half a lemon

• A good splash of Worcestershire Sauce

• 1/2 a tsp of garlic powder

• 1/2 a tsp of onion powder

• 1/4 tsp of paprika

• A pinch of salt and a grind of pepper to taste

• Combine the above in a jam jar and shake - then pour over the meat

• Marinade for at least 20 minutes and overnight if possible

• Now, light your fire as you want to be cooking over the wood embers not the the flame.

• Grill until coloured nicely

• Serve in wraps with a salad of your choice, and a garlic aioli (a squeeze of garlic puree mix well with shop bought mayo works nicely).

For the full authentic Spanish experience spatchcock the partridges by removing the back bone and pressing flat on a board. You can use plucked birds with the skin on, or for ease of preparation, skin the birds so you don’t have to clean up the feathers. Marinade as above.

Feast and sluice, liberally.